Restaurants of the Year 2008: Beast and Le Pigeon
"Pomeroy's cooking is rooted in French home cooking but with a power drill of meat, like a blind date between Julia Child and Anthony Bourdain. Beast food comes from the heart and gut, changing with the weather and seasoned with integrity. Pomeroy gets graceful with souffles, and even her Steve's Cheese course contains taste jewels of poached fruit, candied nuts and spiced shortbread. But Pomeroy likes her manly foods, too --steak and eggs, hash or her signature: a charcuterie plate full of meaty deliciousness and vegetable joy. There's no mistaking the female touch, the sense of something conjured by a butcher-farmer-artist gal. But unfasten your seat belt: That plate with stuffed quail, duck liver and morel toast and greens tossed in duck-fat vinaigrette could merely be the third leg of a six-course road trip."